Ko Hyang Restaurant
by James Na ~ July 24th, 2006. Filed under: America.Man does not live blogging by alone. Man sometimes must eat… Korean food.
One of the wonderful benefits of living in metro-D.C. is the proliferation of Korean restaurants, if not in D.C. itself, then certainly in the surrounding suburbs. Annandale, of course, is well known as the Koreatown of Northern Virginia (some people are unhappy about that moniker, of course).
However, most Korean restaurants in the U.S. tend to be the usual Bulgogi and Galbi BBQ joints. This is not a surprise since such fare is much more acceptable, and thus more commercially viable, than other kinds of Korean food. But this does get old sometimes, and one craves something a bit more… dare I say, Korean.
It is, indeed, a rare Korean restaurant in the U.S. that serves Soondae, originally a northern Korean delicacy that is now widely served as snack food in South Korea. For those who live in Northern Virginia, the only game in town for this kind of Korean food had been Seoul Soondae.
But Korean demographics in Northern Virginia is changing. Annandale, in any case, has always been a Korean commercial area rather than a residential one. Centreville in outer Fairfax County has become the new Koreatown, a residential one, in the area.
In nearby Chantilly (4265-C Brookfield Corp Dr., 703.378.0105) at the Fairfax-Loudoun border, a new Korean diner like Seoul Soondae has sprung up. Called Ko Hyang Jip or Ko Hyang Restaurant, it serves Soondae, various Korean “country-style” dishes (octopus, conch and etc.) and other dishes that are usually consumed with a copious amount of alcohol (Ahn Ju Ryu, listed as “Favorites” in the menu), the choice of drink often being Soju.
I recently tried Ko Hyang Restaurant and found the food and atmosphere just right. The former was earthy and delicious, the latter very spartan, which is to say, very authentic. The location is convenient for those who live farther out from the Beltway area. The service was friendly (which is not always the case at Korean restaurants).
The availability of a restaurant like this is a far cry from the situation that existed, say, 30 years ago. At that time, one had difficulty finding any kind of Korean restaurant even in major urban areas. Many people did not even know that Koreans were not Chinese or Japanese. Now we live in a world where American exurbs previously considered “very white bread” boast authentic diner-style Korean food (or Indian curry-filled pastry shop, to give another example).
As I often say, it’s a different world.
July 25th, 2006 at 6:50 am
Helpful advice. Any thoughts on why there aren’t stellar Korean restaurants IN DC? Or am I missing something that would save me a drive to Annandale?
July 25th, 2006 at 10:09 am
Good question. I wonder where all the Korean dry-cleaners, convenience store and deli owners would go for lunch? There’s a place right next to the Fed Ctr SW Metro station that serves a “pulgogi sandwich”, but that’s probably not what you were thinking of when you asked for a “stellar” restaurant.
Yee Hwa at 21st St NW is a servicable option, but one gets the feeling they cater more to embassy and world bank crowds. The one time I ate there the waitstaff was quite friendly, especially when I broke out the hangunmal.
July 25th, 2006 at 12:17 pm
They pack their own. These people are hustling and trying to make money. They aren’t going to be spending $10 a pop for lunch at some swanky Korean restaurant in D.C.
It is difficult to run what I call the diner-style Korean food in the choice parts of D.C. (NW). The demand is low from the general population (”Eeek, weird!”) and the rent is too high.
The trend for Korean restaurants is definitely going upscale, e.g. Woo Lae Oak or Yee Hwa, particularly in rent-high areas like NW DC and Pentagon City.
“Successful” Koreans don’t want to run a “dingy” mom-and-pop operation. They want to run a swanky place and be swanky restauranteurs.
Only in Korean ethnic “working” and living areas like Annandale and Centreville will one find mom-and-pop joints that serve country food.
The positive side of this, however, is that, as I mentioned in the entry, such “ethnic” neighborhoods are increasingly found in the suburbs and exurbs. In this regard, Koreans in America are subject to the same social forces (drive for space, better public schools, safety, etc.) that lead to the general demographic shifts to exurbs.
July 25th, 2006 at 12:42 pm
That is also occuring here in NYC/NJ. Although Im not Korean, I love Korean food and have eaten at Korean restaurants on both sides of the Hudson. I would have to say that most restaurants in Koreatown and in Bergen County, NJ have the mom & pop feel to it which makes the food much more authentic. Once you get to downtown Manhattan (below 28th st)you see Korean eateries that do not serve the more exotic Korean dishes that I like such as gobchang gui & soondae. I am afraid that galbi & kimchi will get commericialized and become what burgers and fries are to America.
July 25th, 2006 at 3:56 pm
My first step into an Annandale sundubu place made me feel like I was back in Seoul. The smells, the fast conversation, the ajumma scurrying around… I was the only non-Korean on the premises.
July 26th, 2006 at 11:04 am
Ah, Bergen County… I once knew a girl from there…
Yes, Annandale feels very Seoul. But as the WaPo articles explain it is a commercial “day” Korean area. Many Koreans now live in Centreville where they have been trying to erect a gigantic mega-church.
Businesses follow people, and Centreville is begining to acquire many Korean-related businesses, including a Man Wha Bbang!
July 27th, 2006 at 12:10 am
I went back to Ko Hyang Jip and tried its Seo Lung Tang. It was good. The female server remembered me and was very friendly. She said (in Korean) “This is your second visit, yes?” I replied also in Korean affirmatively. Then she said “Yes, the first time you came, you were with an American woman.”
That would be my wife. Of course, I just nodded. I didn’t think it important at that particular juncture to engage in a conversation about self-identity… although my normal response would have been “I am an American too.”
So often do many older Koreans refer to those of European descent as “Americans,” as I noted before.
July 28th, 2006 at 10:37 am
Thanks for the tip about Ko Hyang Jip. I think I’ll check it out tomorrow after stocking up on ammo at the gun show in Chantilly.
July 29th, 2006 at 12:01 am
bitstreamer:
Welcome, and thank you for the reminder about the Chantilly gun show!
BTW, I recently ate at Cho Son Garden (”Cho’s,” corner of Routes 29 and 50). The Bulgogi is okay, the daeji gogi (pork BBQ) there is unusually fresh and tasty.
But the real kicker was, Soju is $16.95 a bottle!
I understand the lack of general demand (and hence low economy of scale) for Soju in the U.S., but nearly $17? I can actually get a quite drinkable Portuguese wine at that kind of price!
Probably wouldn’t go well with Korean food, though.
February 18th, 2007 at 10:19 am
anyanghaseyo!
im currently in korea working with children and addicted to the food! i live in northern va. ill be back this week and looking for a typical korean place where you sit on the floor and have the bbq at your own table.. tons of meat, kimchi and soju. (oh yes… and soju here in korea costs 1,000 won at your local 7 11 or family mart, convenience stores. thats about $1 a bottle my friends!)
pleaseee can someone tell me where i can go for this?
kapsamnida! thanks,
irene
February 18th, 2007 at 9:28 pm
I know of no commercial place in NoVA where Soju is $1.
Your best bets for cheap Korean eats are Seoul Soondae and Kohyang Jip. Otherwise, try the million Korean places in Annandale.